Nostalgic, rebellious and whimsical – three words you feel instantly in the presence of GCDS, and having met Giuliano Calza you understand why. The Italian Creative Director’s vision for fluidity in streetwear and penchant for play has led the brand to global prominence and he’s just getting started.
Outside of his love for his family, friends and favorite feline, there’s nothing Calza loves more than making clothes: “real ones, meant to be worn, not tricks intended to trigger viral responses” – a concept he addresses by adorning a gigantic cat in newspaper clippings at the center of his Milan Fashion Week runway show.
The Fall/Winter 2023 collection itself plays to the strengths of Calza’s craftsmanship from bourgeois tweed jackets to worn leathers. Safety pins appear throughout the garments as a nod to the process of fashion making and the DIY nature of styling today. While the texture play and tailoring didn’t go unnoticed, it was the bakelite telephone handle and bedazzled Kittho cat bags that stole the show.
Peep the backstage magic of the FW23 showcase above and continue scrolling to hear more about Calza’s inspirations, future ambitions and a few of his favorite things.
You say fashion is “subjected to local economic and sociological scenery.” How did your studies in political science influence what you design today? Is there a social commentary laced in each season that’s cut from the same cloth?
Definitely I do, there’s a lot of economy and a lot of politics tied to every collection. I luckily have a voice and through what I create I can send messages and maybe inspire people. I think I’ve arrived at this point having a quite caring point of view on the world through my studies and experiences. I’ve observed that often clothes are an explanation of