FASHION

GCDS FW23 Is an Ode to Giuliano Calza’s Favorite Things

Nostalgic, rebellious and whimsical – three words you feel instantly in the presence of GCDS, and having met Giuliano Calza you understand why. The Italian Creative Director’s vision for fluidity in streetwear and penchant for play has led the brand to global prominence and he’s just getting started.

Outside of his love for his family, friends and favorite feline, there’s nothing Calza loves more than making clothes: “real ones, meant to be worn, not tricks intended to trigger viral responses” – a concept he addresses by adorning a gigantic cat in newspaper clippings at the center of his Milan Fashion Week runway show.

The Fall/Winter 2023 collection itself plays to the strengths of Calza’s craftsmanship from bourgeois tweed jackets to worn leathers. Safety pins appear throughout the garments as a nod to the process of fashion making and the DIY nature of styling today. While the texture play and tailoring didn’t go unnoticed, it was the bakelite telephone handle and bedazzled Kittho cat bags that stole the show.

Peep the backstage magic of the FW23 showcase above and continue scrolling to hear more about Calza’s inspirations, future ambitions and a few of his favorite things.

You say fashion is “subjected to local economic and sociological scenery.” How did your studies in political science influence what you design today? Is there a social commentary laced in each season that’s cut from the same cloth?

Definitely I do, there’s a lot of economy and a lot of politics tied to every collection. I luckily have a voice and through what I create I can send messages and maybe inspire people. I think I’ve arrived at this point having a quite caring point of view on the world through my studies and experiences. I’ve observed that often clothes are an explanation of

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BEAUTY

I’m a beauty fan and here are four simple steps to skin care on a plane – it’s perfect for long flights

A BEAUTY fan has shared some simple steps to ensure your skin stays flawlessly hydrated throughout a long flight. 

Taking to TikTok, Aimée, who posts under the username @aimeemusictiktok, revealed her in-air skin care routine.

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A beauty fan has shared some simple steps to ensure your skin stays flawlessly hydrated on a long flight
Aimée applied Elemis cleansing balm all over her face

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Aimée applied Elemis cleansing balm all over her face

She said: “Skin care of my flight from Dublin to Los Angeles. 

“So first we squirt a bit of water on these cotton pads, and I just really tried to make this look professional. 

“I don’t know about anyone else, but I cannot go to sleep on a plane if I feel makeup on my face.”

Aimée then applied Elemis cleansing balm all over her face.

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She said: “So I basically just lash this all over my face. Oh, absolutely stunning, and I use the wet cotton pads to take it off.  

“But I swear… I nearly burnt my eyeballs off. Don’t know if that’s normal, but anyways keep going. 

“So I repeated the process twice just to make sure that I got all the bits off from all the crevices. Okay, that word is up there with moist.”

After her makeup was removed, Aimée went in with some Elemis night cream.

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She said: “So then I used this pro collagen night cream. 

“I couldn’t get the bloody thing open for ages, so I’m just going to

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SHOPPING

The pandemic, online shopping, and the shift towards ‘re-commerce’

shop app
Credit: CC0 Public Domain

We live in a digital age where online shopping is more popular than ever. Sitting in the comfort of one’s home and browsing a seemingly endless amount of goods has certainly made our lives easier. Everything’s merely a click away. What’s not to love about that?

The strict movement control orders (MCOs) imposed by the Malaysian government and the self-imposed social distancing practiced by individuals have pushed consumers further towards online channels of commerce.

If it wasn’t part of your normal before, it is now. A US Census Bureau report found that in the second quarter of 2021, an estimated US $222.5 billion was spent in retail e-commerce sales.

The downside of online shopping

While online shopping has its benefits, there’s no denying the drawbacks. Due to closed borders and the emergence of coronavirus variants, many have halted their travel plans and chosen to instead spend their earnings by shopping.

This group of consumers either spends from their savings or through credit cards. And, since their introduction, “Buy now, pay later'” (BNPL) schemes have been encouraging irresponsible overspending.

A study conducted by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) on 26 countries, including Malaysia, shows that financial literacy and knowledge of youths aged 18 to 29 is poor, and they exhibit less prudent financial behavior.

According to the Malaysian Finance Minister, 40 percent of millennials (born between 1981 and 1996) are spending beyond their means. Bank Negara Malaysia reported that 47 percent of Malaysian youths (aged 18-29) have high credit card debts. These debts’ common internal factors include retail therapy, overspending on occasions, and a need to be part of the gang.

During the pandemic, an increasingly stressful life caused people to spend more on themselves. Retail therapy is a mood booster when stressed—the

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BEAUTY

How Hyram Yarbro Became TikTok’s Biggest Skin Care Star

The word skinfluencer is practically synonymous with one person: Hyram Yarbro. His social media following is enormous (more than 12 million across platforms), the products he recommends tend to fly off shelves, and his TikTok reaction videos have amassed upward of 10 million views. So how did a 26-year-old with no formal training as a dermatologist or aesthetician become TikTok’s most trusted—and most followed—skin care authority?

Yarbro was born and raised on a cattle ranch in (his words) “the middle of nowhere,” Arizona. At 18, he moved to Honolulu, where he’s remained ever since. He trained as a makeup artist and started posting videos on YouTube, but pivoted when he developed an interest in helping others look after their skin. “I was fascinated with it, because I saw the potential it had to unlock people’s ability to see themselves in a more confident light,” Yarbro tells BAZAAR.com.

But his YouTube channel was slow to take off. “Over the first two years, I grew to something like 2,000 followers,” he says. That began to change just before the onset of the pandemic. “I started noticing the most significant growth on YouTube at the end of 2019. That’s when I went from, I think, 10,000 followers to over a million within [a few months].”

Yarbro isn’t surprised that his skin care content saw such growth even before we were all stuck at home. “It was something that I kind of predicted. From 2016 to 2018, makeup YouTube was huge. People were using full-coverage foundation and heavy, dramatic makeup, which was awesome,” Yarbro recalls. “But I also realized, if people don’t know how to properly take care of their skin, it’s going to cause some skin concerns. So that motivated me to create the content that I did leading up to

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BEAUTY

A Local Expert Weighs in on Today’s Top Skin Care Trends

skin care trends
Photo: IStock

When Western Michigan University graduate Kelly Swanson isn’t working as a physician assistant at Clarkston Dermatology, she’s running a successful blog and TikTok account where she educates her readers and viewers on proper skin care procedures and products. These credentials make her a go-to person to discuss the intersection of dermatology and buzzworthy social media skin care trends. Below, Swanson weighs in on some of the internet’s most talked about skin care practices.

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Kelly Swanson is a physican assistant at Clarkston Dermatology. // Photograph courtesy of Kelly Swanson

Slugging

What it is: Slugging is the application of an occlusive ointment (think Vaseline or Aquaphor) at the end of a skin care routine. Sluggers say that this practice creates a barrier to lock in all the products applied previously, and results in smooth, glowy skin.

What Swanson thinks: “I think slugging became popular as a way of restoring the skin barrier when you’re using stronger ingredients like retinoids, acne medications, etc. I don’t think it’s a bad concept, but what I think people fail to realize is that if you’re using moisturizing brands like Cerave, which is based off of ceramides that are intended to restore the barrier, that’s kind of already doing the job of what slugging would do. If people like it, there’s no convincing them to stop. It’s not horrible, but it’s certainly not necessary in the skin care routine.”

Buzzworthy ingredients

What they are: Ingredients like niacinamide and caffeine have been trending on social media for creating a glowing, smooth complexion.

What Swanson thinks: “They’re trendy. Those kinds of ingredients are often hiding in products anyway, like the Cerave

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